Huaqing Palace (华清宫)

A Tang-dynasty royal hot-spring retreat at the foot of Mount Li, famous for Emperor Xuanzong and Yang Guifei's love story — and for the stage version of that story after dark. Come for the gardens and history; stay for the Song of Everlasting Sorrow show.

First-time visitor essentials — the 4 worries, solved

Before you go

• Location: About 30 km east of Xi'an, on Metro Line 9 (Huaqingchi Station). It's also a natural pair with the Terracotta Army, 10–15 minutes farther east.
• Opening hours: gardens roughly 7:30–18:00 in winter, 7:00–19:00 in summer; evening show times change by season, usually 20:10 or 20:30 in summer, earlier in spring/autumn. Check the current schedule when booking.
• Tickets: Palace entry ~¥120 (student ¥60); show tickets ¥238–988 by zone. A combined palace + show ticket is often cheaper.
• Book the show early. Song of Everlasting Sorrow sells out, especially Zone A/B middle seats. It does not run in winter (roughly December–February; replaced by a special "Ice & Fire" version some years).
• What to bring: passport, phone with data, a light jacket for the outdoor evening show, mosquito repellent in summer, and comfortable walking shoes.

How to get there

• Metro (recommended): Take Line 9 to Huaqingchi Station (华清池站). Use exit B or C and walk about 5 minutes to the main entrance. From central Xi'an (Bell Tower area) this takes roughly 50–60 minutes including transfers and costs about ¥7.
• From Xi'an North Railway Station: Take Line 4 south to Fangzhicheng Station (纺织城站), transfer to Line 9, then ride to Huaqingchi. Total journey ~55–70 minutes.
• From Xi'an Railway Station: Take Line 4 one stop to Fangzhicheng, transfer to Line 9 to Huaqingchi. ~45–55 minutes.
• Tourist bus: From the east side of Xi'an Railway Station, take the green "You 5" (游5 / 306) bus to Huaqingchi. The ride is about 60–80 minutes and costs around ¥7. Avoid touts offering unofficial "express" buses.
• DiDi/taxi: From Bell Tower, expect ¥90–130 and 50–70 minutes depending on traffic. Tell the driver "Huaqing Palace (华清宫)." If you also visit the Terracotta Army the same day, ask the driver to wait or use DiDi for the short hop between the two sites.
• From the Terracotta Army: It's only about 10–15 minutes by DiDi (¥15–25) or bus 602/613. The standard combo is Terracotta in the morning, Huaqing Palace in the afternoon, show in the evening.

How long to spend

• Bare minimum: 1.5–2 hours for the palace gardens, royal bath ruins, and a quick look at the Xi'an Incident buildings.
• Recommended: 3–4 hours to add Mount Li cable car, the Beacon Tower viewpoint, and a slow walk through the gardens.
• Full experience: 5–7 hours including dinner nearby and the evening Song of Everlasting Sorrow show. This is the classic Xi'an day trip: Terracotta Army morning → Huaqing Palace afternoon → show evening.

Popular must-sees

• Jiulong Lake (九龙湖): The calm lake surrounded by pavilions and willows. By night it becomes the stage for the Song of Everlasting Sorrow show; by day it's the best photo spot in the palace.
• Royal Bath Ruins (唐御汤遗址博物馆): The stone basins where Emperor Xuanzong and Yang Guifei bathed, including the famous lotus-shaped pool. This is the historical heart of the site.
• Song of Everlasting Sorrow (长恨歌): The outdoor evening show on Jiulong Lake with Mount Li as a giant backdrop. Dance, music, fire, water, and lights retell the Tang love story. Even without understanding Chinese, the visuals carry it.
• Xi'an Incident sites (五间厅 / 兵谏亭): Bullet holes in the walls and buildings linked to the 1936 kidnapping of Chiang Kai-shek — a surprising modern-history layer hidden inside an ancient garden.

Hidden gems and local favorites

• Mount Li cable car to Beacon Tower (骊山索道 / 烽火台): Skip the cable car crowds by walking the old stone trail from Bingjian Pavilion up to the Beacon Tower. The view over Lintong and the Wei River valley is excellent, especially at sunset.
• Early morning empty gardens: Arrive at the 7:30 opening. For about an hour you can have Jiulong Lake and the bath-ruin halls almost to yourself before the tour buses arrive.
• 《12·12》 Xi'an Incident show (瑶光阁剧场): A smaller indoor immersive show about the 1936 incident. It's easier to book than Song of Everlasting Sorrow, cheaper (~¥169–268), and gives context to the bullet-hole buildings.
• Furong Garden and the old pear garden (梨园): The quieter back gardens with Tang-style pavilions. Locals say this is where the palace feels most like a real imperial retreat, not a theme park.
• Free 6D film at the Changsheng Hall (长生殿): Easy to miss because it's tucked behind the main baths. It's short, cheesy, and fun — and included in the palace ticket.
• Late afternoon golden hour: The red palace walls and green-tiled roofs glow between 17:00 and 18:30 in summer. Perfect for portraits without the harsh midday sun.

Song of Everlasting Sorrow — the evening show

An outdoor performance on Jiulong Lake with Mount Li as the backdrop. It tells the Tang love story through dance, music, fire and water effects. The show is in Mandarin but the visuals carry it; it's one of the best night activities in the Xi'an area.

• Price: ¥238–988 depending on zone. Middle-price seats in Zone A or B offer the best balance of view and price.
• Schedule: Usually one or two shows per night in spring/autumn, two or three in summer, starting around 19:40 or 20:10. It does not run in winter (roughly December–February).
• Booking: Reserve 3–7 days ahead on Trip.com, WeChat, or the official mini-program. Bring your passport — the ticket is checked against the ID used to book.
• Seating tip: Seats near the center of the lake-facing grandstand get the best reflection and symmetry. Avoid the far side sections unless you only care about price.
• After the show: Metro Line 9 runs until about 22:30. If your show ends later, pre-book a DiDi back to Xi'an or book a tour that includes return transport.

Things to watch out for

• Fake tourist buses at Xi'an Railway Station. Only take the official green "You 5" (游5 / 306) bus with a conductor in uniform. Touts offering "express" or "direct" buses often overcharge or add shopping stops.
• Don't trust unofficial guides at the gate. They may rush you through and add commissions. The palace has official guides, or you can use a free audio guide app.
• Show tickets sell out. Don't plan to buy Song of Everlasting Sorrow at the door, especially in summer or on weekends.
• It gets cold after dark. Even on hot summer days, the outdoor lakeside show can feel chilly. Bring a light jacket.
• Mosquitoes in summer. Jiulong Lake is a magnet for bugs after sunset. Repellent helps.
• Don't dip hands in the historic pools. The restored royal baths are fragile archaeological sites, not fountains.
• Cash for small vendors. Mobile pay works for tickets and most shops, but a few small tea stalls and snack carts still prefer cash.
• Watch your step on Mount Li. The old stone trails are uneven and can be slippery after rain. Wear proper shoes, not sandals.
• Winter = no classic show. If you're visiting December–February, confirm whether the special winter version is running; the classic open-air version is normally closed.

After you leave

• Getting back to Xi'an: Metro Line 9 runs until around 22:30. If the show ends later, pre-book a DiDi or join a tour with return transport. The taxi stand near the main entrance can have a long queue after the show.
• Dinner: Options near Huaqingchi are limited. Either eat at the palace's restaurant or head back to Xi'an for Muslim Quarter food. Local Lintong snacks include glutinous rice cake (甑糕) and fire-crystal persimmons (火晶柿子).
• Complaints: 12345 or the palace visitor center.

Pre-trip prep

• Book combo: Palace + show ticket online 3–7 days ahead, especially in peak season.
• Dress: Comfortable walking shoes; the grounds are large and hilly in places. Bring a jacket for the evening show.
• Pair it with: Terracotta Army in the morning, Huaqing Palace in the afternoon, show in the evening — a perfect Xi'an day trip.

Quick facts